A Beginner's Guide to Buying a Watch
The world of watch buying is a massive one. Different styles, materials, mechanics, brands and a variety of other variables create a seemingly endless supply of watch combinations. So, how do you find the right one? Stick with us, and we'll break down how to find that timepiece that's meant for you.
Why do you want a watch?
Asking yourself this question first will help narrow down the enormously crowded field of options at your disposal. Imagine a "Deal or no Deal" esque game, where there are millions of open cases shouting your name and screaming for your pick. The goal is with each preference and detail you specify, cases continue to close until the final case that's meant for you is remaining. Taking an approach of eliminating the field rather than exploring for endless options will allow you to feel confident in your final choice. So, why do you want a watch? Some simply want something simple, and daily that they can put on and forget about. Other's may find that they want something a little flashy and tailored to their unique preferences. Enthusiasts or collectors tend to buy with brand recognition and resale value in mind. A number of men are looking for a piece that hits on a little bit of everything, while others might be looking for something 1 of 1. It's extremely important to ask yourself this question so you can better tell yourself exactly what it is your looking for.
Is this thing real?
The number one rule to follow when buying a watch is do your research. With the social media age changing the entire way we shop, the watch market is EXTREMELY crowded. Just a simple google search has personally flooded my Instagram feed with beautiful looking watches conveniently on sale for 80% off. Not everything you see online will be too good to be true, but it is very easy to be duped into thinking you've scored something valuable, before realizing you've been let down when it arrives.
(Tip: When researching a brand, focus on where the watch is made and where the company is headquartered. Beware of language like "designed in" or "invented in" as often that points to outsourced parts, labor and mechanics. Instead, look for words like "made in" or "manufactured in" to be sure that you are getting the quality you are looking for.)
The watch market is very susceptible to phonies, copycats and fast-fashion designers attempting to appeal to a trendy aesthetic. Now if you do come across a watch that you fall in love with, but probably doesn't check the box of being legitimately made, that is totally okay. After all, you should find the watch you wear pleasing to you. However, for the sake of argument we are going to try and avoid falling for these types of watches.
Where to begin? For starters, the best way to vet a watch company is looking for those that privately manufacture in the country they are headquartered. These brands have notoriety for being trusted watch makers for decades and sometimes centuries, and hold the highest resale value. Choosing something that stands the test of time is the best way to defend yourself against seemingly random designers that pop up out of anywhere. Another great way to screen your watch is to be sure that the manufacturer is providing every reasonable specifications on material, drive mechanics, glass type, warranties, returns, etc. Avoid all brands that do not provide a return service, or do not clarify specifications.
Below is several in house manufactured watch companies that have a great market reputation to get you started.
Japan
Seagull, Seiko, Citizen, Orient, Credor
Swiss
Tissot, Hamilton, Movado, Bulova, Longines, Certina
USA
Timex, Shinola, Vaer, Astor + Banks
Great Britain + Europe
To be fair, the above list only considers brands that have reasonably priced starter watches for below $500. There are many other luxury brands that offer superior sourced materials, higher grade crystals, etc. Quite a few more brands exist that are not listed as well! If you find a watch you love that isn't on this list, it's best to do your own research and feel confident in your buying decision.
What style is for me?
This is pretty much where the fun begins. The point of wearing a watch is to dress in something that fits your style and suits you. And luckily with the vast amount of competition and yearly releases, there's a style, color and shape that's personal for everyone. Below we'll outline some of the main common styles that are found in watches.
Dress Watch - simplistic, sleek, clean
Orient, Bambino Version 2 - $210
Field Watch - versatile, durable, functional,
Shinola, The Runwell 47mm - $595
Pilot or Race Watch - distinct, multi-featured, performance
Citizen, Sport Luxury Atomic Timekeeping - $556
Luxury or Modern - Detailed, unique, flashy
There are plenty of other styles that exist out there that are not listed here. For instance, a skeleton watch gives you a sweet inner view into the mechanical workings of the piece and have a huge collectors audience. Digital watches are options for people who might have impaired vision, while other chronographic (multiple dials) pieces show intricate details like the moon phase and days of the week. Many watches have style crossover's such as a dress watch with a mini chronograph or a field watch that flashes unique colors and materials. It's important to keep in mind the general style you're searching for, but also staying open to anything that personally speaks to you.
Let's talk tick
Now that we have a general direction on style, let's examine the most important part of the watch; how it works. There are three main ways a watch is powered. Quartz, Mechanical and Automatic. You can always find this information on the general website's collections, or by diving into the watches product details. Below, we'll talk about what those mean and what option might be best for you.
Quartz
Quartz movement is by far the most popular and convenient method when it comes to keeping your watch ticking. After becoming popular in the mid 20th century, it's estimated that 96% of all watches are made with a quartz movement. Quartz is used by a battery that removes the need for any winding or attention from the user. Although often avoided by enthusiasts and collectors, quartz watches are some of the most accurate and reliable types of timekeepers resulting from the simplistic design approach.
Mechanical
Where it all started. Mechanical watches hold the true intricate inner workings of true watch craftsmanship. In order for the watch to keep running, the gears must be wound often in order to keep the watch ticking. Although mechanical watches can +/- 20 seconds per day, they attract enthusiasts all around to their vintage appeal and complex inner workings. Although usually boasting the highest budget, mechanical movement won't be going out of style anytime soon.
Automatic
First appearing in the 1700's, automatic movement takes a very similar approach to mechanical except for one important difference, relying on kinetic energy. The automatic tick stores energy created by the movement of the wrist throughout the day; take a pendulum for instance. With each knock energy it's stored and kept in the main spring, before slowly being released. Automatics also come with a dial in case the watch is not in use, and are usually a lot heavier on the wrist due to the pendulum inside moving around. Automatic watches are available for all budgets and have become one of the most popular choices by providing convenience to the wearer, while also retaining the attractive mechanical working.
Other Materials
Now that we've hashed out the main factors of watch shopping, there are still a few more final considerations to complete the perfect piece.
Strap
The most important things when shopping for a watch is to not stress too much about what strap is currently on the watch. Most straps are inter-changable and can move freely between different materials, but it's best to verify that information as well.
Leather - Timeless, classy, colorful
Metal bracelet - Forward, dressy, jewelry
Mesh bracelet - Sleek, elegant, unique
Canvas - Light, durable, function
Silicone - Snug, comfy, fun
Glass
There are three different types of glasses or sometimes called "crystal" that cover the watch dial. Do your due diligence when browsing and ask or check what material the glass casing is made of before making your decision.
Acrylic Glass - The cheapest type of glass to produce and is actually a plastic. Although transparent and hard to break, this glass scratches very easy and should be avoided.
Mineral Glass - The most common type of glass used in the watch market, mineral glass is common among windows and is very transparent. Although better at avoiding scratches, it is more prone to breaking and shattering on hard impact.
Sapphire Crystal - The most desired glass among watch makers and enthusiasts alike, this glass is extremely transparent and near shatter proof. With it's outstanding resistance and clarity, premium watches nearly always use this type of glass.
Editor's note
If you've come this far and are thinking this sounds like a lot of work, you're right it can be. Thinking back, it took myself upwards of 5+ hours before selecting my first watch and it's impossible to prepare for the world you're getting into. If you've also made it this far and are thinking "Man, I want something of high value, has brand notoriety, pairs well with anything, but won't break the bank," here's an option that I personally went with some time ago. (I promise I'm not being paid for this)
Sea-Gull, International Edition, 1963 Vintage Chronograph - $179
If you liked this article, consider giving our other posts in The Locker Room a read! As always we thank you for being a part of red collar and remember #collarUP